The 17th arrondissement: Character, Class, Contrast
- Carsten Sprotte
- Jul 10
- 5 min read
Updated: Jul 13
Why does the 17th seem “off the map” for so many foreign buyers? If I were to ask a sample of such buyers, I suspect the reply would be “it seems too far out” (in other words, we’ve never bothered to make the trip).
That belief should be re-examined in light of the recent metro line 14 that directly connects the 17th to two train stations (Gare de Saint-Lazare and Gare de Lyon) as well as to the center of Paris (Madeleine and Chatelet), all within 10 to 15 minutes. With lines 1, 2, and 3, that now makes for four metro lines serving the 17th.
Another likely objection from common foreign buyers might be : “we just prefer the left bank or the Marais (because that’s what we know and love)”.
Fair enough, if walking the Seine needs to be a part of your daily routine and you can afford the space you desire in one of those areas. It is a pity, though, given that much of the 17th offers an abundance of the stylish Haussmann architecture that many foreign buyers seek.
Some recent search clients of mine defied the paths most travelled by and ventured into the 17th. As a result, I was able to show them a beautiful sampling of ten three-bedroom Haussmann-style apartments over two days. Happily, they chose one, across from the elegant Parc de Monceau, and were satisfied to learn that the same apartment would no doubt have cost an extra million euros in the 7th. Here is a sampling of representative apartments in the upscale 17th:
As is the case for most arrondissements, the 17th cannot be understood as a single neighborhood. Rather, it is composed of four distinct quartiers, each with its own history, architecture, atmosphere and property market: Ternes, Plaine-de-Monceaux, Batignolles and Épinettes. The first three of these are connected by two main streets with their particular feel: the elegant Boulevard Pereire with its green space, and the shopping street, rue Jouffroy d’Abbans.
Unlike some Parisian arrondissements that developed relatively uniformly during the nineteenth century, the 17th grew by absorbing villages, farmland and industrial districts at different periods. The result is one of the capital's most varied residential environments.
Property buyers can find everything from charming pre-Haussmann village-style buildings, to grand Haussmann apartments, to Art Deco architecture, to former industrial buildings converted into lofts, and contemporary developments part of the Clichy-Batignolles project.
The 17th arrondissement will never enjoy the international reputation of Saint-Germain-des-Prés or Montmartre, but it offers something many residents value even more: neighbourhoods that are first and foremost places to live. Excellent schools, abundant local commerce, attractive architecture, numerous parks, convenient transport connections and a predominantly residential character combine to offer a high quality of life.
For foreign buyers willing to look beyond Paris' best-known addresses, the 17th arrondissement deserves careful consideration. Lucile, a Parisan Youtuber who ranks all of the arrondissments in Paris according to her own criteria, marks the 17th as her favorite.
Ternes: Elegant, Established and Well Connected
Occupying the southwestern corner of the arrondissement, Ternes is the district most closely associated with the traditional image of western Paris.
Originally a small village situated along the road leading from Paris to Neuilly, Ternes expanded rapidly during the nineteenth century as Baron Haussmann transformed the capital. Today, broad avenues, handsome Haussmann buildings and numerous tree-lined streets give the neighbourhood an elegant and distinctly Parisian character.
The commercial life of the district centres on Avenue des Ternes, Rue Poncelet with its very Parisian street market Unlike many of Paris' best-known shopping districts, these streets remain primarily local rather than tourist-oriented. Daily life revolves around neighbourhood cafés, independent food shops and long-established businesses rather than souvenir stores.
Its proximity to the Arc de Triomphe, the Palais des Congrès and the business district of La Défense also makes Ternes particularly attractive to professionals seeking both convenience and a prestigious residential address.
La Plaine Monceau
Immediately north of Ternes lies the Plaine Monceau, one of the capital's most refined residential districts. Until the middle of the nineteenth century this area consisted largely of open fields, giving rise to the name plaine. Yes, the rain falls here gently on the plain. Its transformation formed part of the ambitious urban expansion undertaken during the Second Empire, when elegant apartment buildings and private mansions were constructed for the growing upper middle class.
La Plaine Monceau remains characterised by imposing Haussmann façades, wide avenues and a calm residential atmosphere. Although Parc Monceau technically belongs to the neighbouring 8th arrondissement, it effectively serves as the district's principal green space and greatly enhances its quality of life.
The rue de Lévi is a lively shopping street with the best Paris has to offer in terms of delicacies.
Batignolles: From Village to Vogue
Originally an independent village beyond the city limits, Batignolles was annexed to Paris in 1860. Despite more than 160 years within the capital, it has retained much of its original village atmosphere. Around Place du Docteur Félix Lobligeois, small streets lined with cafés, independent boutiques and local restaurants still create a sense of community.
Over the past two decades, Batignolles has undergone one of Paris' most significant urban transformations. The redevelopment of the former railway lands created the Clichy-Batignolles eco-district, centred on the Parc Martin Luther King. New residential buildings, offices, schools and public spaces have been integrated into one of the city's largest sustainable urban development projects.
The result is an unusual combination of old and new. Historic streets coexist with contemporary architecture, while excellent public transport has made the district increasingly attractive to young professionals and families.
Épinettes, on the edge
Épinettes developed as an industrial and working-class district during the nineteenth century. Factories, workshops and railway infrastructure shaped much of its urban landscape, resulting in architecture that is generally more modest than that found in the western half of the arrondissement.
During recent years, however, the neighbourhood has gradually evolved. Improved transport links, several redevelopment projects and the growing popularity of neighbouring Batignolles have attracted increasing interest from buyers. Although property values generally remain below those found in Ternes or Plaine Monceau, the gap has narrowed in many parts of the district. Note that this neighborhood also borders the world-renowned Saint-Ouen flee market, where you can find the most rare and unusual antiques and furnishings.
As elsewhere in Paris, location remains highly specific. Conditions can vary considerably from one street to another, The two Haussmann-style, tree-lined avenues that define the borders of this neighborhood (Avenue de Clichy and Avenue de Saint-Ouen) have fallen from grace. In spite of many beautiful façades, the avenues are populated by fast-food, low-cost, and low-quality. Will these avenues ever be restored to their original splendor? It will certainly take time, and if I were to advise a potential buyer, I would say “don’t count on it”.
Yet, just off these same avenues you will stumble upon several charming streets, such as the Cité des Fleurs, a semi-private street adorned by the most elegant abodes. The contrast is surprising, but not shocking. Paris is not a rigidly segregated city. Diverse populations accustomed to each other’s proximity cultivate less tension and hostility.
To sum up the 17th, here are a few places to visit :
Rue de Lévi
Parc Monceau (officially in the 8th)
Square de Batignolles
Batignolles organic food market
Promenade Pereire
Cité des Fleurs
Rue des Dames
A few suggested restaurants:
L’Eldorado
18, rue des Dames
Private courtyard terrace
Rooster par Frédéric Duca
137 rue Cardinet
Le Truffault
89, rue Truffault
See more photos of the 17th arrondissement here, and a presentation of all Paris arrondissements here.
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